the twisted threads of cotton

Cotton yarns of various counts, made by twisting two or more single threads in the reverse direction of twist; these are again twisted together but in the direction of twist they were spun.

Dọcht [dɔxt] wick

[wɪk] noun فَتيلَه، ذُبالَه

Specially hard-twisted yams, containing from 30 to 70 turns per inch and produced in singles and doubled. The usual range is 40's to 100's single, 2/80's to 2/200's doubled. The yarns are used for voiles, crepe-de-Chines and fabrics where the aim is to produce crinkles through the strong tendency of the yarns to contract in length. In cotton, yams are made up to six- or nine-fold for special purposes. Crepe yarns are also produced in wool, silk and rayon. An official definition states: Silk, rayon, cotton or wool threads may be given a twist of a specific number of turns per inch. The thread contracts in the twisting, and the evenness of the twist, the type of twist, and the number of turns determines to a definite degree the character of the face of the texture for which the twisted yarn is used. The twist in the yam is set by a process of steaming. The twist co-incidently increases the strength of a thread to a limited extent. The twist may have a bearing upon the lustre of woven or knitted fabrics and upon the capacity of dye penetration and absorption. A crepe yarn may consist of a single thread twisted one way, or of several threads joined by throwing into one thread by a combination of twists.

A warp knitted woollen fabric for glove making, made with the threads of the upper guides napped to form a fur back. When the upper guide carries cotton yarn and the lower guide woollen yarn, the fabric is called " lined cloth." When the upper guide carries wool and the lower guide cotton, the cloth is known as " plush lining." When the upper guide carries soft-twisted cotton yarn and the lower guide hard-twisted cotton yarn, the cloth is called " cotton lining." The fabrics are chiefly used for glove linings.

English-made tufted fabric composed of cotton warp and weft for ground, and woollen pile weft in 1³/₄-in. lengths, 25 tufts per inch of ⁵/₈-in. pile. The warp is 16 ends as one, and three such compound threads are twisted together and woven 10 per inch. The weft is thick cotton yarn of four threads as one, five picks per inch. One pick is inserted after each row of tufts. As the pile yarn has four threads of 5 skein as one, there are 25 X 8 = 200 ends of pile yarn per square inch. The rugs are fringed at each end.

English-made tufted fabric composed of cotton warp and weft for ground, and woollen pile weft in 1³/₄-in. lengths, 25 tufts per inch of ⁵/₈-in. pile. The warp is 16 ends as one, and three such compound threads are twisted together and woven 10 per inch. The weft is thick cotton yarn of four threads as one, five picks per inch. One pick is inserted after each row of tufts. As the pile yarn has four threads of 5 skein as one, there are 25 X 8 = 200 ends of pile yarn per square inch. The rugs are fringed at each end.

A cotton cloth for motor tyres devised to eliminate the chafing action of threads crossing each other, as obtains in the " builder " fabric. The cloth is made with strong corded threads for the warp, with as little weft as possible. The picks vary from 4 to 10 per inch. The warp threads are laid parallel and vary from 22 to 25 per inch. The weft is a single end of 21's to 23's with 10 to 16 turns per inch and is only intended to retain the warp threads in parallel order. The warp takes all the strain, and is composed of two-ply threads, counts 23's, 5 X 3 ends twisted right, left, right. The single yarn is 16 to 20 turns, first doubling 5 ends up, 16 to 20 turns, and the finishing twisting 15 ends (5 X 3) is also 16 to 20 turns per inch. These are the " cord tyres " of commerce (see Builder Fabric and Breaker)

This is a fault that causes serious trouble to finishers and is due to the unequal distribution of the weft threads on the back and the face of the cloth. The remedy is to weave flat selvedges and this can be done by using suitable weaves for the fabric to be woven, and a weave that does not give a tight selvedge. Manufacturers can avoid curling selvedges and by a little experimenting at the beginning of the warp the right weave can be quickly obtained. Curling selvedges in wool, invariably present themselves in the making of heavily-felted cloths (e.g., the Army greatcoat), when the weave shows a preponderance of warp or weft on one side, such as prunelle crow or sateen. The defect is partly overcome by weaving the selvedges in warp cord, weft cord, or hopsack. For fulling, the piece should be doubled as a bag, with the face inside, and the lists stitched flat together; or two pieces may be put face to face and the lists stitched. This arrangement, by keeping the pieces flat, also prevents mill marks. Other causes are: The use for the selvedge of odd yam which mills quicker than the cloth itself, and curls as it becomes shorter. In such cases the listing yarn should be harder twisted, or warped a little longer. Narrow selvedges which cannot resist the one-sided pull of the weft in shrinking are drawn in and rolled. (French Army cloths are milled from 102-in. to 55-in. The lists in these are made with ten very thick twofold threads, two to three times as heavy as the single ground yam). Skying the listing threads too closely is a cause of the defect.

A fancy dress cloth made from spiral yarn warp and mixture weft (cotton and wool). The design is a small spot on 10 shafts; piece-dyed black or blue. This cloth is set 68-in., 18 ends and 18 picks per inch, warp one thread of 5's twisted to one thread of 20's The single threads are both hard twisted and have only six turns per inch in the doubling. The weft is coarse single yarn spun from about 80 per cent wool and 20 per cent cotton to 6 yards per dram. The cloth is shrunk to 54-in.

The operation of drawing silk from the cocoons or unwinding is termed reeling. The filaments from several cocoons are reeled together as a single thread. They are not twisted, but adhere to each other by reason of the gum which joins the two threads in the bave. ———————— The process of unwinding yarn from cops or bobbins and rewinding on to a revolving reel in the form of skeins or hanks, in which form it is most suitable for export, or for sizing, dyeing, bleaching or mercerising. The cotton reel is usually 54-in. in circumference. Cross Reeling is the method usually adopted when the hanks are for dyeing. The thread is traversed rapidly across a width of 3-in., making diamond-shaped crossings which keep the yarn open and makes hanks capable of undergoing the dyeing process without entanglement of the yarn. Grant Reeling is similar to cross reeling, but the crossing of the thread is more open and shows decided diamond-shaped openings both on the reel and when opened out for rewinding. By this method of crossing, hanks of great length can be reeled ranging from 5 to 10 times 840 yards. Straight, or Lea Reeling - This consists in reeling the yarn in groups or leas formed by holding the traverse rail stationary for 80 revs. (120 yards) and then moving it bodily a short distance. In a 840-yard hank there will be seven leas side by side, the yarn being continuous from one lea to another. Two interlacing tie bands are usual. This method is used for export yarns shipped in 10-lb. bundles. Ring-tie Reeling - Cotton yarns for polishing (see Glace Yarn) is reeled by this method. The length of each lea is 210 yards and straight reeled two leas in length. The tie band is in the form of a figure 8 so that it can move freely with the friction of the brushes. The beginning end of the first lea is tied to the finishing end of the second lea, but not tied to the tie band. Skein Yarn - Yarn reeled in sections of a given weight.

This is a term applied to looped cords which are furnished with an eye in the centre and employed in looms for controlling the up and down movements of the warp threads. In the majority of cases there is a separate heald eye for each warp thread, and those healds which lift in the same manner are threaded on the same stave except in those cases where that would make the healds too crowded. In such cases the healds are divided on two or three shafts which may be tied together to lift as one if weaving conditions permit. Healds are formed by a knitting machine which is set to form the required number of heald eyes per inch on each stave, or in the case of spaced healds with the heald eyes arranged in the desired order on the stave. The yarns used may be cotton or worsted (see Hea'd Yarns). In knitted healds the eye is usually formed from the same yarn as the rest of the heald, but healds can be made with metal eyes. Metal healds are made of twisted wire galvanised or treated to be rustless, and formed with an eye in the centre for the warp thread and elongated upper and lower eyes for threading on flat steel bars that are secured to the heald staves proper at the top and bottom. Such healds are usually of the sliding type and eliminate the need for healds knit to pattern. Wire healds are also combined with knitting to give a prescribed number of eyes per inch.

A type of fancy yarn twist, in which loops are formed of mohair or thick cotton or two ordinary threads. One of the ordinary or thin threads and the thick cotton or mohair are twisted together, the thin thread being tightly held and the thick one slackly twisted round it. This two-fold thread is then twisted in the reverse direction with another thin thread. The reverse twisting throws up the thick thread in the form of loops. The curls or loops vary in size from small to large. Small loops are usually on yarns intended for dress goods, large ones for astrakhans, etc.

(See knitting). All yarns used for knitting are termed hosiery yarns in Leicester, but in America only yarns actually used for knitted footwear come under this term. These yarns are much softer than required for weaving. Miscellaneous Yarns - Goat wools, such as llama and alpaca are employed in spinning. yarns for the knitting trade. Vicuna and camel yarns are used to a limited extent. Ramie yarn is specially employed for knitting gas mantle fabrics. Soft spun flax yams have been used for making underwear fabric. Chenille and other manufactured threads are used to a small extent in warp knitting. Composite yarns, such as union yarns - spun from a mixture of wool and cotton fibres; cordon yarns - cotton and worsted singles, doubled together; wool and rayon or spun silk, cotton and rayon or spun silk are largely used to produce self or two-colour effects. Fancy yarns, such as slub yams, voiles, and curled and loop yarns are also employed. Hosiery Yarns (Cotton) include condenser, hosiery, condenser lisle thread, mercerised and sewing cottons. Condenser yarns are spun in coarse counts from low-grade cotton, Indian and American. They are carded, condensed and mule spun, and possess little twist. Hosiery cotton yarns vary considerably in counts and qualities, practically all varieties of Indian, American and Egyptian being used in varying proportions to obtain suitable mixture for quality and price. Cheaper yarns are carded and mule spun. American and Egyptian cotton yarns are combed mainly with the object of removing seed particles. High-class Egyptian and Sea Islands cotton yarns are super-combed. The chief features of a hosiery cotton yam should be: (1) Regularity; (2) cleanliness; (3) fullness. Regularity prevents the making of cloudy fabric, showing thick and thin places. Cleanliness is essential, as the seed particles clog the eyelet hole in the yam guides and cause breakages. Fullness is desirable to cover the loop interstices. Elasticity and pliability are quite as essential as tensile strength. Yams are usually soft spun and if two-fold soft doubled, average twists in two-fold being 2/10's 6¹/₂T., 2/20's 8¹/₂T., 2/30's 10T., 2/40's 16T., 2/80's 20T. Softer twist less 25 to 30 per cent of average (T= turns per inch). Lisle thread is a comparatively hard-twisted and doubly-gassed thread in which there are no projecting fibres. It is always of a two-fold character, and the doubling twist varies from 24 to 34 turns per inch in 2/60's. It is used largely in the manufacture of ladies' hose tops and feet and for lace hosiery. Mercerised yams are used largely in the fancy trade, a comparatively soft twist again being employed. Sewing cottons for seaming, linking and making-up are specially prepared in two to six cord open and reverse twist. Woollen and Worsted Yarns include lamb's wool, wheeling, skein yarns, gala yams (woollens), worsted, crossbreds, fingering, cashmere, dry spun botany (see under each name). Worsted and crossbred yarns of various qualities are used. These yams are spun softly with " hosiery twist." The drawing may be open, cone or French, and the spinning may take place on cap, ring or flyer frames. The chief essentials of hosiery yarn are softness of fibre, fullness, minimum of twist consistent with the requisite tensile strength, regularity, pliability and elasticity. Cashmere Yarns, as used in the knitted goods industry, are spun from short, loose and weak wools as well as from better qualities by French drawing and mule spinning. A small proportion of real cashmere is used for outer garments. In recent years nylon yarns have been largely employed.

Super yarns used principally for hosiery and underwear. Spun from the finest of long staple combed cotton, hard twisted, gassed and mercerised to give a smooth surface. Originally made from flax at Lille (France) and used for open weave net fabrics. The cotton thread is harder twisted than usual in the doubling process in order to give a firm feel to the fabric, in addition to its better wearing quality and greater elasticity. Knit fabrics made from lisle thread have less tendency to " ladder " than other threads. The counts range from 2/50's to 2/100's or finer. It was known as Scotch thread.

These are very strong and require to be pliable and supple in the finished thread, so as to be free from a tendency to curl and twist up, which would cause entanglements in a net. The yarns are about 20's in 21 folds. Usually American cotton is used with the singles spun twist way. Made into 7 cord twisted twist way, with a good proportion of twist. Then three of the 7-cord threads are twisted together weft way with a moderate amount of twist.

Very light open plain weave dress fabrics. The best qualities of voile are made with fine, very hard twisted two-fold combed and gassed cotton yarns. Gassing is done to remove all projecting loose fibres and make the yarn surface as clear as possible. It is a distinctive feature of good voile fabrics that warp ends and weft picks should appear singly in the cloth, that is, with a tiny space between adjacent threads. They are woven one end in a dent. Plain voiles are produced white, piece-dyed in self colours, and printed in huge quantities mostly in dainty colourings and very attractive designs. Various fancy stripes and checks are made with voile ground texture. Standard makes of plain cotton voiles are as follows: - * Combed and gassed Sakel. 38 turns per inch ** Combed Sakel. 38 turns per inch *** Combed and gassed Sakel. 46 turns per inch.

These are twist yams made in wool, worsted and cotton. Two or three threads are twisted together (generally two) one dyed, the other white. Used in the cotton trade for grandrelle shirting (see mock grandrelle)